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Biodynamic Wines In France the ‘bio’ label means organic but as Andrew Kerr of Artisan Wines explains, ‘biodynamic’ means organic plus… Some of you, but probably not many, may have heard of biodynamic wines. It’s a growing movement closely aligned with an organic approach to viticulture, but with the added dimension of aligning many activities to the movements of the moon and planets. If you’ve got a scientific frame of mind it may all sound a bit far fetched! However before you turn-off, why not take a few minutes to find out a bit more about the theory of biodynamic wine methods and why we should care about what they do. Background Biodynamics was first detailed in a series of agriculture lectures given by Rudolf Steiner over 80 years ago. It is internationally recognised as a leading organic method of agriculture. The biodynamic method involves the use of specially developed homeopathic preparations that assist in connecting the whole farm unit with the dynamic rhythms of the earth and atmosphere. So, instead of just acting on the physical, biodynamics goes one step further in both working with the living soil and the invisible energies of nature. Any connection between the movement of the planets and wine production sounds tenuous at best, until you remember that we, like all other living creatures, are impacted by the cycles of the moon and sun in terms of our everyday lives. So, there may well be more science to biodynamic theory than you first realise! Bio – why we should care Irrespective of the theory, there are a number of very sound reasons why we should care about “bio”. Firstly there is the small matter of results. Top Burgundy growers such as Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Domaine Leroy and Domaine Leflaive use biodynamic methods, and Louis Jadot is increasingly moving in that direction. In addition to the results if you also have an interest in the world at large, then these individual winemakers have a lot to offer:
Where can we find biodynamic wine? Unfortunately most of us cannot afford the delights of Romanée-Conti and the like. However, with a bit effort it is possible to find biodynamic producers making hand-crafted wine at an affordable price – in particular look out for the “demeter” certification that is used by some biodynamic producers. If you are in the UK, Artisan Wines specialise in the import of small independent French vignerons who use biodynamic or other low intervention techniques. We have a special “bio-box” containing six different wines from four producers – good value at £95 for 12 bottles. Andrew Kerr Email: info@artisanwines.co.uk, Tel: 0044 (0) 1244 851 577 From a Burgundian Perspective They’re not shouting about it but the Burgundy wine producers are farming biodynamically more and more. Pierre-Henry Gagey of Louis Jadot says: ‘We’d never put organic on the label. We’re not doing it for reasons of marketing. It’s not that we’re purists, we’re just doing it in an organic spirit. And we’re doing our best to go in this direction. We don’t use herbicides, we don’t plough too much, we plant grass between the rows, and we work with natural, not synthetic products.’ Technical Director of Louis Jadot, Jacques Lardière, who is highly respected in the wine trade, endorses the biodynamic principles. He has a profound belief in cosmic and terrestrial energies. A spirituality, not at all religious, pervades his winemaking and his life. ‘When you’re open to the rhythms of life, you don’t need a calendar,’ he says. Intent on producing wines that are reflections of their terroir, fertilizers are out. ‘In a fertilized vineyard, the roots don’t have to delve deeply, and all the character of the terroir is lost’ Hand picking and hand sorting, infinite care and attention plus a feel for nature is the message. |
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