Food

Burgundian Cheese

Dijon Market

The Burgundian cheese platter features the famous names of Époisses, Chaource, Abbaye de la Pierre qui Vire, and Bouton de Culotte. There are some excellent small suppliers too selling at the weekly markets such as Joigny, Auxerre, Beaune, Dijon and Avallon. With plentiful rich cows’ and goats’ milk available, the creamy cheeses are an essential feature in the cuisine of the region. Look out for the 'bio' label.

Epoisses

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Château d’Epoisses

It was described as 'the king of cheeses' by Brillat-Savarin, the gastronome. The rich smelling Epoisses cheese was probably first made by the monks at the Abbaye de Fontenay in the 15th century. Now made by the Berthaut factory in the village of Epoisses from cows’milk, the most traditional version is dipped in Marc de Bourgogne every day for two months. Other varieties from this producer include one dipped in Chablis wine (Affidelice), another coated with ash (Aisy Cendre) and lastly, one treated with a solution of water and salt (Soumaintrain).

The traditional Epoisses is widely available in Burgundy shops. It, of course, features on the cheese boards of restaurants and is delicious as a sauce on steak, in Tarteflette and Croque Monsieur. It is exported to Switzerland, Germany, Belgium and Japan. There is a shop at the Berthaut factory in Epoisses selling all the cheese varieties and related local products from wine to mustard and booklets on the cookery of Bourgogne.

*Open daily except on Sunday. Closed for lunch between 12.15 and 14.00.
*Visit Château Epoisses in the village – Park open all year from 9.00 to 19.00.
Château open July and August except Tuesday

Fromagerie Gaugry

Due to health and safety regulations (those great protectors but never-the-less the kill-joys of many good things) it is not always possible to see the famous cheeses of Burgundy being made. One factory in Beaune, Gaugry have it sorted however. They have a viewing platform and you can visit free of charge any day of the week except Sunday and purchase their cheeses too. Gaugry make amongst others, l’Epoisses and a delicious but little known cheese called l’Ami du Chambertin, created by Raymond Gaugry in 1950. You can find the factory on the RN74 just outside Beaune at Brochon, tel: 00 33 3 (0)80 34 00 05.

Abbaye de la Pierre qui Vire

Lac St-Agnan near Abbaye de la Pierre qui Vire

Within easy driving distance of Epoisses, at St-Léger-Vauban in the Morvan forest, the Benedictine order of monks make the famous cheese at the farm of Abbaye de la Pierre qui Vire. Creamy and gentle in flavour, both goats’ and cows’ milk cheeses are available from the shop at the Abbaye and at shops in the locality. The Abbey are now making deliciously subtle flavoured yoghurts too.

*Shop at Abbaye open 10.45 to 12.00 and 15.00 to 17. 30 every day.
Closed January.

Chaource

This creamy cheese is claimed by both the regions of Burgundy and Champagne. The Fromagerie d’Auxon near the river Armançon has been producing this delicious cheese for four generations, updating their processes to keep up with the times and demand.

Bouton de Culotte

This little morsel, ‘trouser button’, is one of a selection of goats’ cheese produced in the Mâconnaise region of southern Burgundy in various shapes and sizes.

Abbaye de Cîteaux

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While this cheese is not widely available, it is worth going out of your way for.
The Cisterian monks, at the Abbaye de Cîteaux sell the cheese from their shop situated east of Nuits-St-Georges along the D8. The abbey was founded in 1098 but suffered greatly during the French Revolution, before being revived in 1898. Today there are 30 or so monks in residence.

The milk from their Montbéliard cattle, it is heated to 60 degrees C and a culture is introduced. Rennet is added to warm milk to set the curd and then this is cut and cut again to release the whey. Then the mixture is packed into moulds and refrigerated overnight.

But it is the ripening of the cheese which is all important. Three layers must grow on the cheese in the correct order – first the yellow mould, then the white, and finally by rubbing with brine, the red mould appears. After 18 days in the aging rooms or caves it is ready for sale and continues to ripen. At three and a half to four weeks old it is in its prime. The cheese shop, Alain Hess in Beaune matures the cheese in his own cave, with excellent results, see Specialist Shops.

Chèvrerie de la Pierre Longue

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In the little village of le Fresne, next to St-Germain-de-Modéon in the Morvan National Park, Colette Giraud keeps 40 goats. She makes a variety of cheeses ranging from pavé du Morvan which is like Camembert, to crottins du Morvan, the little round cheeses.

In this perfect rural setting with the forest backdrop, the life of the artisan farmer goes on. Colette Giraud is a small producer, nurturing her flock, and taking great pride in the end result.

You will find the cheeses on sale at local markets such Avallon on Saturdays and in specialist cheese shops such as Berthault in Epoisses. Otherwise, visit the Chèvrerie and see the goats, the cheese-making process and sample the produce. It is a visit which is sure to delight children and adults alike. Different delicious honeys and pain d’épice are also on sale too.

Chevrerie de la Pierre Longue, Le Fresne, St-Germain-de-Mondéon, 21530. Tel 03 80 64 71 97. Open Friday evening from 17.00 – 19.00 and Saturday from 8.00 – 12.00 from March to end of October.