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Burgundy Wine News 2017

A PRESTIGIOUS PURCHASE

Bonneau du Martray, photo 365 jours en bourgogne, Laurent Gotti 'Considered one of the most prestigious estates on Corton Hill, the owning family of Domaine Bonneau du Martray has announced the sale of the majority of its shares to American businessman Enos Stanley Kroenke' reports Decanter.com. Kroenke owns Screaming Eagle winery in Napa Valley and is the majority owner of Arsenal football club. Located on the hillsides of Aloxe-Corton and Pernand-Vergelesses, the 11 hectares produce only Grands Crus from Corton and Corton-Charlemagne.

KNOW YOUR GRANDS CRUS

Ecole des Vins BeauneYou know your Burgundy wines but would like to become more conversant with the Grands Crus - let's face it, who wouldn't? The Ecole des Vins in Beaune runs a course in English over three days where you can expand your knowledge. They advise that you do need to have wine tasting skills to get the best out of this experience. Time will be spent in the professional tasting room, you will visit wine domaines and study the Grands Crus of Chablis, the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits. Visits to local restaurants with matched wines included. The Saga of the Grands Crus is planned for June 28-July 1, price on request. A gourmet's delight. ecoledesvins@bivb.com.

WINTER IN THE VINEYARDS

Burgundy vineyards in winter, photo BIVBThe vines in Burgundy have gone into hibernation, but the winegrowers are kept busy pruning and fertilizing the soil for the coming year. Here is the BIVB rundown on pruning and soil management in the vineyards over the winter months. 

There are different pruning styles depending on the region - one popular method is 'Guyot' pruning, another 'Chablisienne'. The canes and buds to bear the next harvest must be carefully selected and here experience is paramount. The pruned shoots stay attached to the wires supporting the vines and people known as tacherons are employed to remove them. The action is called “tirer le bois” and the clippings are then gathered up and burned in special burners, which are often homemade. 

Burgundy vineyards in winter, photo BIVBMaintaining the soil involves working it to break it down and aerate it. Earthing up, which is done before the first frost, protects the vines. If planting new vines, the soil must be ripped or tilled to a depth of 40-50cm on average in the Bourgogne winegrowing region, to break it down and remove any stones. The winemaker performs this task with a special plough called a “défonceuse.” To replace spent nutrients nitrogen is added for the vegetation, phosphate for fruit development and a healthy plant, and potash which helps develop the sugar in the juice as well as resistance to disease and frost. Daily monitoring of the vines goes on throughout the year and the growing cycle continues...


The wine economy in Burgundy

The BIVB has bought out a pictorial pdf showing various aspects of the wine economy in the region - information on average production, varietal distribution, regional variations, distribution of appellations, markets, and surface areas – you can find all this and more in Key Figures for Bourgogne Wine which makes for interesting reading. From the poor reproduction below you can see the idea. PDF link



'A Highly Entertaining Uncorking of Counterfeit Wine Scandal'

Sour Grapes documentary, the story of Rudi KurniawanThe fascinating story of Rudi Kurniawan the wine forger unfolds in a new documentary aired on Neflix called 'Sour Grapes.' The scope of this scam instigated by the very convincing and charismatic Rudi will keep you enthralled as the Burgundy wine producer Laurent Ponsot, the auctioneers. the collectors, the ex CIA agent, the FBI and Kurniawan's new found friends account the scale of the counterfeiting and the one man induced price hype of the wine over recent years. Rudi has taken the rap and is serving a ten year prison
sentence but could one man really have done all this
alone? Read The Guardian review.

User friendly wineries to visit

Domaine Joliet Burgundy Domaine Quivy Burgundy

Domaine d'Arduy Burgundy

 

Domaine Joliet, Domaine Quivy, Domaine d'Ardhuy, three of the winegrowers offering tastings with Rue des Vignerons

In Burgundy the wine grower may be a one man band or a family affair. As Jancis Robinson points out in her article on visiting Burgundy's wineries, it is not easy to find them in their cellars to pay them a visit, usually they are out in the vineyard tending their plants. In Beaune and Chablis the tourist is well provided for with tastings on offer but drive out to Gevrey-Chambertin or Aloxe-Corton and where do you start? Now help is at hand. Rue des Vignerons is a website which tells you the user-friendly winegrowers offering tastings and cellar visits in Burgundy and Beaujolais, plus the other famous wine regions of France. The website is in English, there is no fee for their service and you book online, preferably ahead of time but a minimum of 30 minutes before you want to go. Some of the tastings are free of charge, and the website gives full details of the visits on offer and the prices plus a map and location details. You can buy wines at the cellars at reduced prices too. This certainly simplifies life and assures you of a warm welcome on arrival.

BIVB 2016 Harvest - every grape counts

The wine harvest in Burgundy , photo BIVB, Ibanez'In 2016, the vines required a great deal of care and attention. Various hiccups in the weather left their mark on the vines (see below). Nor did the winegrowers have any respite from mildew, which was very present this year.

The sun and heat enjoyed in August and September nonetheless raised the mood, but on the eve of the harvest, the various complications triggered by these events are making things tricky for producers.

The vines in those plots hardest hit will provide very few or even no grapes at all. A few went on to bud again, producing fruit-bearing canes. On some, the healthy grapes are really enjoying the good conditions, while véraison (the onset of ripening) is just coming to an end in other sectors. In some areas, it may be necessary to harvest in several goes. In general, the vines that escaped the bad weather have produced generous bunches.

The grapes are maturing at a good rhythm, and some have made up for the time lost in the spring. The first grapes to be picked – those used for Crémant de Bourgogne wines – were brought into the winery on around 10 September in the southern Mâconnais. For still wines, picking took place between 19 and 27 September, depending on the sector and the varietal.

The harvests will no doubt take place over a longer period than normal. Patience and close attention will be the order of the day for this vintage that will be unlike any other.

But a question still lingers over the volume of the harvest. The results of a survey carried out among winegrowers suggests a dip in yields of 20-27% compared to the average, suggesting a harvest of between 1.1 and 1.2 million hectoliters. But nothing is set in stone, given how experiences have differed from one estate to the next'.

Decanter gold 2016

Decanter World Wine Awards Gold 2016 BurgundyThe Decanter Magazine World Wine Awards have just been announced for 2016 with 21 Gold ratings for Burgundy wines. Here are the wines to look out for.

Albert Bichot, Bonnes-Mares 2013, Red
Albert Bichot, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2014, Red
Albert Bichot, Domaine du Pavillon Charmes, Meursault 1er Cru 2014, White
Albert Bichot, Hospices de Beaune Cuvée Docteur Peste, Corton Grand Cru 2012, Red
Château de Chemilly, Vaucoupin, Chablis 1er Cru 2014, White
Château de Santenay, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2014, Red
Château de Santenay, Les Pruliers, Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru 2014, Red
Collovray & Terrier, St.-Véran Rives de Longsault, St.Véran 2014, White
Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru 2014, White
Domaine de la Denante, Les Maillettes, St-Véran 2014, White
Domaine de la Vougeraie, Bonnes-Mares 2014, Red
Domaine de la Vougeraie, Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot Monopole, Vougeot 1er Cru 2013, White
Domaine Fourrey, Mont de Milieu, Chablis 1er Cru 2014, White
Domaine Yves Girardin, Château de la Charrière Les Vignots, Pommard 2013, Red
Henri de Villamont, Clos du Cromin, Meursault 2014, White
J. Moreau & Fils, Chablis 2014, White
Jaffelin, Chambolle Musigny 2013, Red
Jaffelin, Meursault 2014, White
Jean-Claude Boisset, Charmes, Meursault 1er Cru, White
Jean-Luc & Paul Aegerter, Reserve Personnelle, Pommard 1er Cru 2014, Red
Labouré-Roi,  Chambolle Musigny 2014 Red
See all the Burgundy results

Putting over the passion

Discovering the vineyard climates of Burgundy Youri LebaultIf you need a reminder of why this wine region keeps beckoning you, take a look at Youri Lebault's book, 'Discovering the vineyard climates of Burgundy'. Concentrating on the Côte d'Or in the wake of its UNESCO ranking, Youri explains the 'climates' and origins of the vineyards leading up to the present day, he talks to some of the well-known growers such as Aubert de Villaine of Romanée Conti who has written the preface to the book, to Olivier Leflaive and Sylvain Pitiot. Lebault operates a luxury-end wine tour business and the final section of the book is devoted to tourist routes which he recommends. All this is presented with intoxicating pictures by Armelle photographe and good maps by Syvain Pitiot making you want to arrange your trip to the vineyards tout de suite. As one reviewer of Youri's trips says: he will 'enhance your experience beyond all your expectations'

The book is available in an English version and a French one, costing 25 euros, plus postage from Youri.

walk in the vineyards with a free app

A good looking app for walkers in the vineyards of Burgundy comes from the Côte d'Or Tourist Office. Packed with information and routes, it is entitled 'Bourgogne Rando Vignes, available in French, f.o.c. at the Apple Store or Google Play. GPS enabled for offline use.

Connoisseurs' Wine Tours

French Wine Explorers, an American based company, specialise in top end wine tours to France. Their Burgundy tour focuses on the Grand Cru wines and their related châteaux and domaines, or spend a few days in Champagne or Paris before heading on to Burgundy. In each case, these are trips for people who are short on time but who want to see and pack in the crème-de-la-crème of the region.

Tastings and Tours

Whether you want an introductory wine tasting or a more in-depth look, there is now a wide choice based around Beaune and Chablis. In our Gourment Tours section, we highlight some of the wine experiences - wine tours and tasting lunches.

The Marché aux Vins in the centre of Beaune, next to the Hotel-Dieu, is an excellent introduction to the best wines of the region. There you can taste the famous names from Meursault to Puligny-Montrachet at your leisure. The Marché aux Vins is open every day and the visit and tasting costs 10 € per person.

The Hôtel du Conseiller du Roy, is the impressive HQ of Bouchard Aîné & Fils on the ring road around Beaune. You can visit the age-old cellars and take a tasting tour for 10 € per person, lasting one hour. In one of the cellars there are pots of different scents from cinnamon to Lapsang Souchong tea to help you identify the personality of the wines you are sampling. Open daily from 9.30 - 12.30 and 14.00 - 19.00.

Wine Tours - Wherever you are in the world, so much more can come out of a trip when you have an experienced guide showing you the way. Robert and Joy Pygott, an English couple living in Burgundy, share their knowledge with you on their wine tours, visiting small independent vineyards and meeting the vignerons. About 20 wines are tasted throughout the day, and a three-course lunch is included in the price. There are one, two and three day tours to choose from with transport in their air-conditioned Land Rover Discovery. Prices for a day’s tour range from 150€ per person, and weekend trips can be planned to include accommodation. Their deep passion and boundless enthusiasm for Burgundy is infectious. robert@burgundydiscovery.com

Also see: Gourmet Tours

wine books

For more information on Burgundy Wine, see Wine Guidebooks

Pam Elson ©burgundytoday.com