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News and events around the Burgundy region, Bourgogne Franche-Comté
The sweet smell of success
fly the flag
The task of the heraldic graphic designers was not too problematic when it came to amalgamating the Bourgogne flag (left) with that of Franche-Comté (centre) following the joining together of the two regions last year. The harmonious new look (right) was unfurled last week.
nuits st.georges puts out the flags for the tour de france
Having repaved the road on the final straight, Nuits St. Georges was finally ready last week to receive the Tour de France. Tens of thousands of guests descended for Stage 7, putting the town in the international spotlight. Decked out and full of pride, the town's enthusiasm was overflowing.
A Walk in the Vines
Explore the vineyards on a two hour walk in the Côte de Beaune organised by the Burgundy wine school, Ecole des Vins de Bourgogne. With a glass in your hand, the intricacies of the region will be explained from terroir to local history. There are two dates: Saturday July 22 or August 26, price 39 euros per person, commentary in French. email@example.com
Hopeful optimism in the vineyards
From north to south in Burgundy, the vines have finished flowering and the grapes are forming. So far so good for the 2017 harvest: the sun, heat and sufficient rain have been perfect for the vines.
The panic of April, when emergency bale-burning helped to prevent widespread frost damage, helped reduced the losses. The exception to this is Chablis where the frost lasted over 15 nights and where some areas suffered a 30-40% fruit loss, and the
The anti-hail generators are in place to combat the summer storms. Here silver iodide particles are fired at the storm front, a method reported to be 48% effective in reducing hail damage.
So, the wine growers are hopeful for the 2017 harvest. It is now all dependent on the weather over the next couple of months.
The Maison des Climats
more on cremant- Which one to buy?
Crémant de Bourgogne, the sparkling wine from Burgundy, is a great success story with sales recently increasing by 20%. Andrew Jefford in his weekly article for Decanter highlights the different characteristics of the wine from the main producers from the north to south of Burgundy.
“The whole of Burgundy is involved (in growing grapes for this wine) ,” says Pierre du Couëdic, the man who has run the UPECB (Union des Producteurs Elaborateurs de Crémant de Bourgogne) for the last 15 years. “There isn’t a single village in Burgundy that doesn’t produce grapes for Crémant.” Is he serious, asks Jefford? They’re growing Crémant grapes in Vosne-Romanee? Apparently... Read the article.
Must Buy or Definitely Try...
It's no surprise if you get confused when it comes to buying wine, there is now so much choice, but the medals awarded in wine competitions are a good guide. At the Decanter World Wine Awards 2017 in London, 258 wine experts judged a total of 17,200 wines from all over the world. Sarah Jane Evans MW, one of the new three co-chairs for DWWA 2017 said: “This event sorts out the ‘must buy’ and the ‘definitely try’…It’s a shortcut for all of us to quality in every region and variety. There are grape varieties that are really rare; regions that are very new; and plenty of the favourites.
Burgundy did well in the competition receiving 32 prestigious Gold Medals, seven of which went on to win the Platinum Best in Show status. We have listed these on Wine News.
Calling all film location scouts
Michael Schuster, MW, is what has been described as 'a wise owl'. He first wrote Essential Winetasting 17 years ago and it has now been revised and published again with much improved design, illustration and more content. As part of his book review on Decanter Magazine, Andrew Jefford 'gave the book to a friend who enjoys wine but has never ‘learned’ about it, and he was impressed. “It’s a great book for constantly dipping into. I like his pitch: a true expert who doesn’t believe in mystification and bullshit. I like the fact that he doesn’t just recommend expensive wines. His science is good; he doesn’t make a big deal about winemakers; he’s got clear explanations about off wines. It’s the kind of book you can come back to you over many years as your experience expands.” See the review. More on books about Wine
Rear view mirror for cyclists
Strap this mirror to your wrist as you cycle, and increase your safety on the road. This natty idea comes from revelationstore in the States and sells for just under 18 euros plus reasonably priced postage to Europe.
The USA film crew from the very popular programme Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking on PBS channel arrived for filming at Château d'Ancy le Franc on Monday as part of their culinary road trip in Italy and France. Two of the region's top English speaking chefs, Jean-Michel Lorain from the Côte St. Jacques in Joigny and Nicolas Isnard from L'Auberge de la Charme at Prenois cooked lunch for fifteen invited guests featuring some of Burgundy's favourites, escargots, Bresse chicken, and Kir. With the sumptuous setting of the Château both inside and out, the programme presented by Australian Pete Evans will be transmitted and viewed by over two million people in the autumn.
Who lays claim to King Arthur, the British or the French? As Nick Inman points out in this month's Connexion newspaper, towards the end of the 12thC, the story, which had until that time been a British narrative, was taken up by the French, particularly Chretien de Troyes, a court retainer. Several episodes of the Arthurian saga supposedly take place in the Bois de Broceliande. This mythical forest is now generally accepted to be the Fôret de Paimpont, in Brittany, Nearby there is an Arthurian Centre housed in the Château de Comper near Concort.However, our readers will know that a very convincing argument stating that King Arthur was in Burgundy has been put forward by Marilyn Floyde in her book, now in its second edition, King Arthur’s French Odyssey: Avallon in Burgundy.
A Matter of Taste: Get current with the experts' wine tasting note descriptions from Earthy to Honeysuckle. Follow the link on Wine News.
An Avant Garde Presentation. Restaurant writer for the Financial Times, Nick Lander visits Troisgros, the Michelin establishment which was previously in Roanne just over the border of Burgundy, which has now moved to Ouches.
The Cousin valley below the ramparts in Avallon is undeniably one of the top beauty spots in Burgundy. Back in the 18thC the valley was industrial and home to working mills, one of which processed flour, the Moulin des Ruats. The exterior of the building appears to have changed little and the working water wheel still turns but inside a transformation took place.
In 1917 a certain Mr. Pierre from Paris acquired the Moulin with pieces of gold and turned it into an hotel with 14 rooms. This was a brave move indeed - don't forget at the turn of the century there were only 3000 cars in France and the Michelin Red Guide was a free pamphlet in its infancy.
The five 'C's
In the 1930s the Berthier family really brought the place to life and its reputation for warm hospitality over two generations spread apace. Today recommendation guides are commonplace but back in 1954 the 'Route de Bonheur' was a new marketing idea. This 'route of happiness' between Paris and Nice was created by Nelly and Marcel Tilloy and it consisted of eight hotels of which the Moulin des Ruats was one. The principles of the Route de Bonheur were made up of five "Cs" - Character, Courtesy, Calm, Charm, and Cuisine. The eventual fusion of the groups Relais de Campagne, Relais Gourmands and Châteaux-Hôtels became in 1975 the prestigious hotel chain Relais & Châteaux, which today still abides by the tenets of the five "Cs".
That same year, the Châteaux & Hôtels Indépendants chain was formed, which in 1998 would be acquired by Alain Ducasse to create Châteaux Hôtels Collection, of which the Moulin des Ruats is still a member.
In 1995, Jocelyne and Jean-Pierre Rossi took over the reins at the Moulin, which today counts 25 charming bedrooms and a panoramic, gastronomic restaurant. A warm and authentic welcome still awaits travellers who come to relax and recharge their batteries in an idyllic, natural setting, which remains forever engraved in the memory.
Chill out with the locals. At Les Halles in Dijon, the market building, head for Sunday brunch. It proved so popular last year that it is being repeated from May to September with top notch food by local chefs and music from 11.00-15.00 for all to enjoy.
1. Hôtel-Dieu Beaune (425,530)
After several seasons of severe hail storms in Burgundy which destroyed some of the grapes at a crucial time in their development and resulted in low yields at harvest time, a 'hailstorm shield' is in the process of being installed across the whole region. The Telegraph reports that it consists of '125 ground generators that cause tiny particles of silver iodide to rise to the clouds above where they stop the formation of the hail stones and thus reduce the risk of damage.' The hi-tech process is called 'cloud seeding'. More...
holidays for all the family
In the list of their top ten campsites in France, The Guardian recommends two beautiful locations in Bourgogne Franche-Comté.
On the banks of the delightful Loue river in the Jura near Ounans, head for the Huttopia La Plage Blanche. Apart from the stunning wooded scenery, there are plenty of activities for the kids from kayaking and canoeing to cycling and swimming. For the grown-ups Arc-et-Senans and Arbois with its distinctive wines are within easy reach.
Camping Merry-sur-Yonne is another beautiful location close to the Roches du Saussois and the Canal du Nivernais. Walking, cycling, tennis and football as well as climbing can burn up the energy, or visit the caves at Arcy-sur-Cure, the Basilica at Vézelay, and the nearby vineyards south of Auxerre.
The latest edition of Le Guide Vert at present is only in French with the English version, the Michelin Green Guide, following on this October. New in 2017, the Musée des Beaux Arts in Dijon has been awarded three star status, joining the basilica in Vézelay, the Hôtel-Dieu in Beaune, the Abbaye de Fontenay, the Abbaye de Cluny and the Puits de Moïse as must see places.
The Puits de moise
So what makes the Puits de Moïse so special? Translated the Well of Moses, this is a sculpture by the celebrated Claus Sluter, carved between 1395 and 1403 for the Carthusian monastery Chartreuse de Champmol in Dijon. Philip the Bold planned this monastery as the burial place for his dynasty but as it turns out, his tomb now lies in the Musée des Beaux Arts.
With Easter in the coming week, the Puits de Moïse takes on special significance. This highly acclaimed example of late medieval sculpture shows a crucifixion scene, a cross on a hexagonal base which was surrounded by the six prophets who had foreseen the death of Christ on the Cross (Moses, David, Jeremiah, Zachariah, Daniel and Isaiah) and standing between these prophets are six weeping angels. Only fragments of the Crucifixion survive, including the head and torso of Christ which are now housed in the Musée Archéologique in Dijon. The hexagonal base with its sculptures remains in a special building, along with the chapel in the grounds of the Hospital de la Chartreuse, now a mental institution.
The Puits de Moïse is open all year, Oct to Mar from 9.30 - 12.30 and 14.00 -16.30 and April to Sept from 9.30 - 12.30 and 14.00 - 18.00. To arrange a visit, contact the Dijon Tourist Office on site, tel: 0892700558.
Enter the dream world of Olivier Penhouet at the summer exhibition in Château d'Ancy-le-Franc. Penhouet uses a technique called peintures tissees working from pictures on his computer taken from his digital camera to get a series of black and white sketches which he then colours in by hand. With the sketches he builds a new picture, five layers at a time, to create his fantasy world. The exhibition runs from March 25 to October 15, entry f.o.c. See website for opening times.
In an attempt to control pollution in the large cities of France from March 31 foreign registered cars need to show a Crit'Air sticker when travelling through Paris, Lyon or Grenoble. (This has applied to French registered cars since January 2017) If you stay on the ring roads, this does not apply but don't let your GPS take you through the centre of these towns without getting the sticker.
Musee du Vin revitalized
After extensive renovation, the Musée du Vin in Beaune reopened on March 15. In this beautiful building dating back to the glory days of the Dukes of Burgundy, you can gain an overview of the region's most precious commodity, wine. Open from March to May and October to November from 10.00-13.00 and 14.00 to 17.00, closed Monday and Tuesday. From June to September it is open one hour later in the afternoon and only closed on Tuesdays.
Set in stone
This, his latest commission stands in Victoria Embankment Gardens and commemorates both duty and service - the bronze medallion shows the military on one side and civilians on the other. The medallion is set between two stone monoliths.
Some of the many pleasures of summer in Burgundy are the top notch classical concerts across the region. Top of the agenda has to be the International Festival of Baroque Opera in Beaune each weekend of July. Booking for this is now open. Then there's the Vézelay Festival at the end of August with a very full and varied programme already online. Just up, the programme for Musicancy concerts at Château d'Ancy le Franc, booking from April 1. In every case the setting is both beautiful and elegant, the atmosphere relaxed, and the music,sublime.
The St. Véran appellation in the south of the Mâconnais was created in 1971. Comprising of the villages of Davayé, Prissé and Solutré-Pouilly in the north and Chânes, Chasselas, Leynes, St-Amour and St-Vérand in the south, this is the land of the Chardonnay grape. In 2018, the appellation will host the St. Vincent Festival, centred around Prissé when 40,000 visitors will be expected. Preparation has begun already with their new website, at present in French only.
Low cost bus travel
Centre: On the eastern edge of the Morvan Natural Park, close to Avallon, the Moulin des Ruats hotel and restaurant lies in the beautiful Cousin Valley, a walker's treat.
Here's our pick of where to stay in Burgundy this year. Depending whether you want an action break or a relaxing getaway, there's something for everyone in all price brackets.
Above left: Château de la Resle - bursting with contemporary design ideas, chill out at this boutique bed and breakfast in northern Burgundy and visit Chablis and Vézelay.
A much improved brochure published by the BIVB, the Burgundy wine board, is now available for 2017 listing the wineries, wine areas, wine events and general tourist information associated with it. The area wine maps are particularly good. En route vers les Bourgogne is in French and English and can be found online and at tourist offices.
Cooking up a treat
Impress your friends by cooking a truly Burgundian meal. Next week, the Burgundy on a Plate cooking classes resume in English with a French chef. You will cook a three course meal of modern French cuisine with a Burgundian twist and, after you have eaten the spoils of your labour, Sue Boxell will take you to visit the famous vineyards with a cellar visit and tasting included.
New for this year, pâtisserie and bread making classes with the experts. For full details, firstname.lastname@example.org
value, quality and style
The BIB Gourmand recommendations came out on January 13, ahead of the main, always much awaited, announcement of the starred chefs on February 9. The BIB Gourmand is the Michelin Guide selection of value for money establishments where you can get a menu with starter, main course and dessert for a maximum of 32 euros a head. In Burgundy five new restaurants have been added to the list: Le Chastellux near Avallon; Le Relais de Saulx, Beaune (below right); Le Bistrot des Moines at the Abbaye de la Bussière (below left); L'Auberge des Tilleuls, Messigny-et-Vantoux; Le Soufflot, Irancy.
'Once we left Auxerre' says Katharine Norbury, 'the lock-keepers and fellow barge dwellers were the only people we saw for hours at a time, although we enjoyed the companionship of grebes, mallards, herons, swans, Canada geese, butterflies and dragonflies.' Writing in the February edition of the Lonely Planet Traveller magazine, Katharine cruised down the Canal du Nivernais on the luxury barge, the Randle, run by Edge Charter. 'Days and nights on the canal expanded, slowed down. We swam in the river below the hilltop town of Mailly-le-Château. We traced the constellations. ..I saw school children waiting for a bus, attended by a family of geese.'
For anyone thinking of a trip on the Burgundy canals this summer, this is a charming snapshot of what you can expect. The article includes tips on where to eat along the route from Auxerre to Clamecy and where to visit too. The February edition of the magazine is onsale at newsagents. Also see Barge Hotels
wallow in chocolate
It is fair to say that Bernard Dufoux has devoted his life to chocolate. He will be 80 this year but still he is expanding his business (his sixth shop opened last September in Dijon), and continues to pass on his enthusiasm for this passion from his headquarters in La Clayette. One afternoon at the beginning of each month, he or one of his team give a masterclass for four hours in the afternoon. Be prepared to wallow in the silky chocolate to make the mouth watering delights such as orangettes, griottes and ganaches. The class, Atelier Gourmand, is in French, unfortunately probably not, they say,
advisable for non-French speakers, and runs from 14.00-18.00 in La Clayette, price 80 euros. Wednesday February 1 is the first class of the year. More...
Here's a new website for visitors to Burgundy or Beaujolais who would like to visit a cellar for a tasting along the famous wine routes in the region but are not looking for a full blown guided tour. In Burgundy the wine grower may be a one man band or a family affair and as Jancis Robinson points out in her article on visiting Burgundy's wineries, it is not easy to find them in their cellars to pay them a visit, often they are out in the vineyard tending their plants. In Beaune and Chablis the tourist is well provided for with tastings on offer but drive out to Gevrey-Chambertin or Aloxe-Corton and where do you start? Now help is at hand. Rue des Vignerons is a website which tells you of the user-friendly winegrowers offering tastings and cellar visits. There is no fee for their services, book online, preferably ahead of time but a minimum of 30 minutes before you want to go. Some of the tastings are free of charge, and the website gives full details of tours on offer and the prices plus a map and directions. The domaines' wines are often available at a reduced rate too. This certainly simplifies life and assures you of a warm welcome. Above, Domaine Famille Picard, Chassagne-Montrachet.
Burgundy Today Cryptic Crossword Solutions
1. Nevers, 4. Tenant, 9. Noël, 10. Prodigious, 11. Bateau, 12&23 down Burgundy Today, 13. Kilometer, 15. Père, 16. Acts, 17. Reveillon, 21. Exported, 22. Petite, 24. A Rare Error, 25. Dope, 26. Events, 27. Troyes
1. Neo Nazi, 2. Valse, 3. Rupture, 5. Emigré, 6 .Adieu Nell, 7. Trundle, 8. Double headers, 14. Outsource, 16. Auxerre, 18. Emperor, 19. Octopus, 20. Street. 23. See 12 across