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This Week...

from our inbox, Burgundytoday´s weekly roundup of news, views & events

july 30

Cajun Festival comes to town

Cajun Festival Saulieu The Cajun and Zydeco Festival takes off again in Saulieu from August 5-8.  This happy event has people dancing in the streets, jamming outside the Café de Paris and whooping the night away in the polyvalent. There’s food, film and music from Louisiana so come and join in the fun.

The line-up for this, the 17th year, includes Bonsoir Catin (right); Feufollet; Sarah Savoy and the Francadians; Cajun Company; Z-Fund; Lil'Jim's Big Squeeze; Bal de Maison, Bayou Chicot; Cajun Express & Co and Blue Bayou. Full programme

The Boisset Empire

Wine in Tetra Paks, screwcaps to replace corks, blending Nuits St. George wine with Californian Pinot Noir, surely these can’t be the ideas of the Burgundian wine producer? Well that’s just what they are - Jean-Charles Boisset, son of the founder of the Boisset empire in Burgundy continues to come up with innovative ideas to stir the wine industry out of its traditional slumbers. Beverley Blanning, MW talks to Jean-Charles and finds an energised man using all his marketing skills and enthusiasm to move the industry forward. More…   

Know your wines

Decanter EducationDecanter Magazine has announced a new wine course under the title of Decanter Education. Each course will be led by Decanter columnists and wine experts and will take place in London at the contemporary Blue Fin Building looking over St Paul’s cathedral. Beverley Blanning MD kicks off with Mastering Burgundy on September 24, aimed at keen wine lovers with experience of tasting and the desire to increase their knowledge of this particular area. For more information or to book online visit www.decanter.com/education

L'or et la cendre

Montreal pageantMontréal, the charming town near Avallon staged a medieval pageant last weekend, the third successful year. Costume and dance recreated the local history during the Hundred Years War when the treaty of Guillon, was signed by Edward III of England and Philippe of Rouvres liberating the lands of the Duke of Burgundy from English occupation, in return for 200,000 deniers of gold.     

july 23

Chateau de la Resle BurgundyChateau Chic

Château de la Resle may be a few kilometres from Auxerre but it stands alone in the countryside overlooking the valley of Montigny la Resle in a world of its own. The exterior looks much like any other grand building, standing in parkland with an orangerie and stables. But take a look inside. The decoration is contemporary and bold, using slate black or rich damson on the walls to highlight the bright modern art and sculptures. This year the owners of the château have opened their doors as a luxury chambres d’hôte, hoping guests will get pleasure from the exciting décor and from the glorious surroundings. More...

in conversation with Emmanuel Hebrard

Food at the Abbaye de la BussiereTo enjoy a meal cooked by a Michelin starred chef and his team need not cost an arm and a leg. At the Abbaye de la Bussière in the beautiful Ouche Valley between Dijon and Beaune, Emmanuel Hébrard serves a lunch menu for 27 euros a head, excluding wine. Served on the terrace in summer with the fountain playing in the background, this is good value indeed.

Hébrard is one of the inspiring young chefs working in the region. He is always on the lookout for better raw materials to ply his craft. His aim, he says, is for guests to come to the Abbaye for the food first and foremost rather than the sumptuous surroundings which are the main attraction at present. As the word spreads, they will come for the food experience for sure. More…

4000 needed for the grape harvest in September

Grape pickers in BurgundyThe grape harvest is one of the highlights of the Burgundy year, taking place in early to mid September. The grapes have to be harvested at just the right moment and the vignerons are on the lookout for additional helpers during this hectic period. You need to be fit, it is back breaking work, but usually fun. The troops are well fed and watered, plus they receive the minimum wage which last year amounted to 8,82 per hour. Altogether, 4000 places are available across Burgundy for eight to ten days working eight hours a day in all weathers. Full details if you want a slice of the action.

Toucy Market

Toucy Market BurgundyThe narrow streets of Toucy, west of Auxerre positively bulge with stalls and people each Saturday morning. The market is mainly food, including live poultry, offering seasonal fruit and veg, sausage, cheese, meat and fish, bread and patisserie. A feast for the eyes as well as the tummy. There is a festival atmosphere and the cafes are crowded. See our list for other markets in the region.

The Famous Five

Five villages in Burgundy have the title ‘the most beautiful villages in France’ – there are only 154 villages across the whole country with this prestigious label. Châteauneuf–en-Auxois,  Flavigny-sur-Ozerain (21), Noyers-sur-SereinVézelay (89) and Semur-en-Brionnais (71) are the picture postcard locations. Now Salives in the Côte d’Or with its ramparts, lavoir and 11thC church has put itself forward as a candidate. We will know whether the village has achieved the goal in October.

now on

In Chalon-sur-Saône, Chalon dans la Rue, a great street festival is in full swing from July 22 to 25.  Theatre, circus, music, dance, everyone is expressing themselves through art. There are grand historic spectacles for all the family at Autun, St. Fargeau and Alésia, and concerts and vide greniers throughout the region.

Salvador Dali exhibition Tournus And Coming Up, Unpredictable, never conventional

Salvador Dali had a different perspective on life and art. This brilliant classical artist developed a totally original style to shock, amuse and stimulate ideas.  In Tournus, from August 4 to September 12 visit the Salvador Dali exhibition ‘50 Years of Surrealism’ in the Réfectoire des Moines. Two hundred original works will be on view and guaranteed there will be surprises.

 

july 15

Murder in the Morvan

A Skulk of Foxes, Richard SutcliffeIt appears that we can’t get enough of them - murder mystery novels dominate the top of the fiction charts just as whodunits get peak time billing on the TV. We welcome a new addition to the booklists this month, writer Richard Sutcliffe, a resident in Burgundy, with his first detective story ‘A Skulk of Foxes’.

The crime scene focuses on a small village community in the Morvan region, and in particular on the expat community there. This melange of people, with time on their hands, know little about each other but meet up frequently socially. Sutcliffe has lived in one such locality and with his knowledge and sharp, sometimes cynical observation of people, he sets the scene. Anyone who has lived abroad will recognise the traits.

The lead character, Tom Fox is called in by Commissaire Renaud to assist in the investigation of a brutal murder, leading to all sorts of revelations. The story touches on the Resistance movement, so dominant in this area of France, and while it may not be difficult to predict the murderer, like all good stories, the twist at the end is successfully executed.A good holiday read. A Skulk of Foxes by Richard Sutcliffe, available from Amazon.

The charm of Meursault

Hotel de la Charme MeursaultThe Hotel de la Charme in Meursault is in the centre of this small, quiet town which produces one of the most famous white wines in the world. The hotel has a large park-like garden and a secluded pool and since coming under new ownership, six of the rooms have been dramatically transformed into comfortable, contemporary accommodation by interior designer Caroline Gigandet of Burgundy Home and Services. The new look is a world apart from the fusty old-style bedrooms. Book online – the photos on the website have not been upgraded yet but be sure to request one of the new rooms when applying.

Plain sailing on the canal

Travelling when you have limited mobility is a challenge. Anne Spiselman tested the water when she took a holiday on the Canal de Bourgogne on a hotel barge. Writing in the Chicago Sun Times, she explains the pros and cons of the trip, visiting the Hotel Dieu, the Marché aux Vins and Dijon. More

july 9

Contemporary art finds its place in history

Severine HubardFRAC is the regional contemporary art fund which encourages all forms of art and artists. The fund, which is government financed, buys works, holds conferences and seminars, sponsors exhibitions and produces books. This summer at La Briqueterie, the Ecomuséé in Creusot-Montceau, the exhibition entitled Structures du Temps features such works as Séverine Hubard’s ‘On a jamais été si proche’ (right), a future fantasy she has envisaged, provoking ‘a reflection on volume and space, at the crossroads between sculpture and architecture’. Other artists displaying their work include Bernard Bazile, Geert Goiris, Guillaume Leblon and Richard Long. Until Oct 31, Ciry-le-Noble

Opening this weekend in the château in Châteauneuf en Auxois, FRAC presents the exhibition ‘Le Palais des Ombres’ and includes photography, sculpture, videos and objects mixed discreetly among the historical exhibits. In the shadows of this ancient fortress contemporary art is on show by Jonas Dahlberg, Patrick Corillon, Dominique Ghesquière, Claudio Parmiggiani, Jacques Perreaut, Gitte Schäfer, Anton Stankowski and James Welling. The exhibition runs to Sept 12.

Leflaive, the troubadour

Sophie Menin, a food and wine writer who has contributed to the New York Times interviewed Olivier Leflaive, the energetic wine producer, restaurateur and hotelier in Puligny Montrachet. On her blog she says, ‘Olivier Leflaive is Burgundy’s least likely troubadour. His family has been making wine in Puligny-Montrachet for 18 generations. He could probably sell all his wine without meeting a single customer. Yet, a simple search of YouTube finds him playing the guitar in a straw hat under a stone arch with golden leaves of Chardonnay vines climbing up to his stomach, while presenting Puligny-Montrachet and the wines of Burgundy as if they were an extension of himself.’ She goes on to talk about this ambassador’s tasting lunches and his hotel, Maison Leflaive, all a part of his love and devotion of the Côte de Beaune. More

July 2

Eccentric Pipe Dream Becomes Established Enterprise

Guedelon 2010Guédelon is undoubtedly one of burgundytoday’s favourite projects in the region. It has something for everyone young and not-so-young – it is a slightly crazy project which is a huge success in terms of visitor numbers and employment in the area, and, it is producing historical discoveries along the way too. Hugh Schofield writing on the BBC News website says ‘an eccentric pipe dream is now an established enterprise…’ and highlights some of these discoveries as he checks on the progress of the building of the medieval castle which at current speed will be completed in 2023. More...

june 24

Beaune a tale of the unexpected

Cours Eau Jardin Festival Beaune As well as the usual tourist attractions, the Town Hall of Beaune has come up with a copious summer programme for the next three months starting this weekend with the festival ‘Cours Eau Jardins’ taking the theme this year, ‘Beaune the unusual, objects of curiosity’.

The courtyard, water and gardens festival opens up many parts of the town that a visitor might not normally find. In the Square of Lions for example, nine landscape gardening schools from all over France have set up displays to show their original ideas for unusual gardens. From Montreuil one theme is ‘Green Kaleidoscope’, another, ‘The Tenacity of Vegetation in the Chaos’. 

In the Parc de la Bouzaize, seven water gardens have been constructed, and opposite the park, there are rare and extraordinary plants, chosen for their colour, shape or unexpected perfume. Some have medicinal benefits, another, l’Impomea has hallucinogenic properties. How long will it be before some green fingered person comes to take a cutting or two?

After restoration, the Beffroi has been opened for the first time in many years. This 14thC bell tower of the Abbaye de Maizières will house an exhibition of clock movements and bells, along with other curiosities. There are further exhibitions on display at the Musée des Beaux Arts and the Musée du Vin.

So call into the Tourist Office in Beaune for the festival route. Some exhibits are free of charge, others require an entrance fee. There are guided tours on Friday and Saturday afternoons, and lots to explore. The festival runs until September 19.

Here’s a brief rundown of some of the other events in the town at the end of June and into July:

July 2 International Festival Baroque Opera begins and runs throughout the month every weekend.

July 6-Sept 7 Caves aux Aromes – discover and breathe in the wine scents, 10.00-12.30 and 14.00-18.00 f.o.c.

live music in place carnot
July 31 Hill Story Band

june 9

Festival Auxois-Morvan

Auxois-Morvan Arts FestivalThe annual festival of arts, Auxois-Morvan kicks off this weekend with painting, sculpture, photos and videos in an selection of installations from Montbard to Arnay-le-Duc.  Lucy and Jorge Orta’s expedition to the Antarctic caught our eye - they made tents from a patchwork of world flags and erected them as part of the Antarctic Village – No Borders project, a bright splash in a chilly landscape. For the full story, visit them at their exhibition at the Ancien Garage Renault, Rue d’Abrantes, 21500 Montbard from June 12 – Aug 15 (everyday except Tues) from 14.00 – 18.00.
More
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BURGUNDY YESTERDAY, TODAY

It is a building constructor’s nightmare when archaeological remains are found just as the digging of the new foundations begins, thereby disrupting the building schedule completely. Marilyn Floyde tells how the remains of a Roman villa was unearthed in St. Moré. 

St Moré digFor the last four months a team of archaeologists has been digging in St. Moré in the Yonne. For those who don’t know St. Moré, it’s certainly a very historical place already. Up in the hills behind the village is Camp Cora – the vestiges of a full-blown Roman military camp. The garrison policed the famous Via Agrippa – many of them Sarmation by nationality. They were a good example of how the Romans used the expertise of their conquered nations in their own army. The Sarmations are believed to have invented the stirrup – which did wonders for mounted archers – and to have given their name to ‘Sermizelles’ – a village also on the Via Agrippa – a little further up the Cure valley.

When a strip of land in the middle of the village close to the fording point on the river was due to be built on, the commune of St. Moré had to seek advice from INRAP the national body for archaeological heritage. A few days were given over to investigation and diagnosis in order to ascertain the potential importance of the site. It was found to be very important – which meant that a full-scale dig had to begin.

They have discovered the foundations of a Roman villa complete with a couple of pillars and some attached iron works and forges. You could still see the smelting pit and burn marks. The dig revealed the last bit of the Via Agrippa before the river Cure. Built on top were other later dwellings and rooms – thought to be part of an inn. Because the site is so near the river fording point it is likely that hostelry accommodation was available – together with blacksmith’s forges – so that travellers could rest before continuing their journey, and perhaps have the wheels of their ox-carts repaired while they wait.

I like to imagine St. Moré in Roman times as having a vibrant and rather jolly night-life. (Quite like today really with the live music and congenial surroundings of the Café Camp du Cora). I imagine that the soldiers passed through the village frequently on their tours of vigilance, and that they took pleasure in the local wine, women and song.

The dig is finished now – the archaeologists having got from it what they needed to increase our knowledge about those times. It’ll be filled in and built on, at some point in the future. But for the moment it’s still there behind a protective fence, for anyone to go and see. It’s a little bit sad that those forges will soon be hidden again. There was something about being able to see the evidence of flames and hard work from such a long time ago, which was more evocative than the all the rubble of foundation walls. © M. Floyde

Read more of Marilyn's discoveries...

Worth Going Out of your way for

© Musee Vernon - Toile Musee Vernon Burgundytoday’s What’s On France page is one of the most popular sections on the site. The criteria of it is ‘is it worth going out of your way for?’

A definite highlight of this summer in Normandy is the Impressionist Festival celebrating those much loved artists including Monet, Pissarro and Gauguin. But it's not just the old masters, there are the newcomers in art, music, poetry, theatre, videos, cinema and symposiums. The website is good, particularly the press pdf detailing all the places and events all over Normandy from now until the end of September.

June 2

Flying high over VEzelay

Flying by paramotor, a parachute with a motor strapped to your back, gives the ultimate freedom of the skies. Philippe Devanne and a group of friends from Paris demonstrate in their six minute video just how beautiful a sensation it is as they float over Vézelay, Asquins and the limestone cliffs around Mailly-le-Château. Viewed this way, there’s none of that drumming motor noise either to interrupt the enjoyment.

a welcome break

Motorway service stations are functional at best – a necessity rather than a pleasure. But en route for Burgundy, 65km out of the port of Boulogne on the A16 at the Baie de Somme, for once you will find a delightful experience and the true meaning of a welcome break.  Situated on the wetlands of Picardie, this is more a bird sanctuary with services added. Spaciously laid out amongst the reeds with wooden walkways, you can picnic, climb up the observation tower, browse in the shop laden with birdie merchandise and recharge body and car. Somehow the place has a de-stressing air.

april 27

Picasso at Pommard

Picasso exhibition at Chateau de Pommard BurgundyMaurice Giraud, the owner of Château de Pommard, is an avid collector of 20thC art. Last year his exhibition featured the work of Salvador Dali. This season, one of the other great Spanish artists of the period comes into the frame. In conjunction with Galleries Bartoux, the works of Pablo Picasso are on show: ceramics, lithographs, etchings and drawings. Visit the château from April 23 to Nov 21, taste the wine and perhaps have lunch too.

 

 

 

UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE STATUS: BURGUNDY CLIMATES EXPOSED!

UNESCO_WORLD_HERITAGE_STATUS_BURGUNDY_CLIMATES_EXPOSED ‘With an exceptional exhibition of over 100 photographs in emblematic venues in Dijon, Beaune, Nuits-Saint-Georges, and Château du Clos de Vougeot, the association for the inclusion of Burgundy vineyard climates as a UNESCO world heritage site hopes to see thousands of visitors coming to view this ancient heritage in pictures’ says the BIVB.

’This exhibition is aimed at local residents as well as visitors from all around the world, who come every year to discover Burgundy and its vineyards. Through their photographs, three Burgundian photographers, Jean-Louis Bernuy, Armelle Drouin and Michel Joly, invite you to plunge into the heart of this universal heritage.'

Exhibition dates and venues: 28 May to 28 August 2010, Dijon; 1 September to mid-November 2010, Beaune; mid-November 2010 to June 2011, Château du Clos de Vougeot; and June to September 2011, Nuits-Saint-Georges.

april 5

AOC for Charolais Beef

The National Institute for Origin and Quality (INAO) has now granted Charolais beef an AOC. Boeuf de Charolles, produced in Burgundy and the Rhone-Alps, has ‘a particular grain, smooth surface, soft and silky to the touch and bright in colour’ say the INAO.

A protected species

We all take a pride in our National Parks, as if we own a piece of nature’s splendour, which of course in a way as taxpayers we do. The French government is committed to developing more protected areas and there are two more parks in the pipeline, one of which is in Burgundy going into the Champagne region, Entre Champagne et Bourgogne. New up, we talk about the parks, National and Natural with a map for orientation. During the coming months make the most of these great natural resources.

Destination: Dijon

launched its new website this week with a much cleaner look and easier navigation. Offering a return ticket from London to Dijon or £89 return, it could be time to book that spring break.  See Short Break in Dijon

mARCH 20

The Colour of Wine

Joyce DelimataThe colour and textures of Pinot Noir as seen through the eyes of abstract artist Joyce Delimata is the theme of an exhibition at the Domaine Comte Senard in Aloxe-Corton. Delimata from Nuits St. Georges, inspired by the subtle evolution of colour through the wine making process, captures its many shades from cerise to violet through redcurrant to strawberry. For an original approach visit this exhibition running from April 2 – Dec 17.

Domaine Comte Senard began life over 150 years go with Clos des Meix. Other prestigious names have been added to the domain over the years including Corton Clos du Roi, Corton Bressandes, and Corton Charlemagne.

Count Philippe Senard, great grandson of the founder directs the estate in Aloxe-Corton. Here there is a tasting room and shop, or, you can enjoy a leisurely tasting lunch - a three course meal of traditional Burgundian fare includes four glasses of the domain’s wines for 35 euros per person, six wines for 43 euros or eight wines for 55 euros. Reservations online.Domaine Comte Senard is open from 10.00 – 18.00 Tuesday to Saturday.

 

Happy Campers

Camping may have been on the back burner over the last decade but it is seeing a revival. The French welcome campers and provide good facilities all over the country. For all the gen, there’s a new edition of Alan Rogers Best Campsites in France 2010 to guide you.

 

 

Burgundy Today Cryptic Crossword Solutions

Across

1. Nevers,   4. Tenant, 9. Noël, 10. Prodigious, 11. Bateau, 12&23 down Burgundy Today, 13. Kilometer, 15. Père, 16. Acts, 17. Reveillon, 21. Exported, 22. Petite, 24. A Rare Error, 25. Dope, 26. Events, 27. Troyes

Down

1. Neo Nazi, 2. Valse, 3. Rupture, 5. Emigré, 6 .Adieu Nell, 7. Trundle, 8. Double headers, 14. Outsource, 16. Auxerre, 18. Emperor, 19. Octopus, 20. Street. 23.  See 12 across